The lining has some age spots along the bottom edge. Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and check out our resources for adapting to these times. Place of Origin. Kerry Taylor Auctions. Nov 13, 2016 - This Pin was discovered by revathi subhash. Supposedly this object was created by male embroiderers in India for export. These beetles are used due to their iridescent colors. But what about historical accuracy in the real world? If there’s a material that gets costumers All The Points for incorporating a material that is a) unusual, b) visually striking, and c) misunderstood in the annals of fashion history, it’s beetle wings. 1783, oil on canvas, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid. Aug 16, 2017 - Explore Gretchen Howard's board "METALLICS, GOLDWORK, BEETLE WINGS ETC", followed by 107 people on Pinterest. These dresses are made on Indian muslin with traditional embroidery. Yes, you read that correctly, beetle wings. Favorite Add to 5 g. Real Iridescent Green Blue Jewel Elytra Beetle Wings Sequin 6 mm. Dovima-2010 has uploaded 37194 photos to Flickr. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Dress worn to a ball by Lady Jane Russell ca. Discover (and save!) See photos and get The Cut's perspective on the On Aura Tout Vu Couture collection, Beetle Wing Embroidered Gown, ca. The brilliance of beetle wings do not fade over time, perhaps adding to the mystical connotation of these insects. Beetle curator Max Barclay shares specimens from his collection and talks about why jewel beetles were so popular for decorating dress, their vivid colour and how they were collected. If you own the rights to content here and wish it removed, please contact us. It was made in India and I found it in a random search of the museum collection at the Embroiderer's Guild in the UK. 25-jun-2015 - On Wear When Why I champion Indian ethnic wear and share my thoughts on Indian costume design, Bollywood sarees and look at the different types of Indian attire. All rights reserved. Thanks! Date. I fell in with the piece, and that love led me to the contemporary work of fiber artist Michael Cook. An English family hangs out with Indian musicians. From shop Littlewingsmagic. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. Or Mary herself? Well, that had everything to do with the colonization of India. Very interesting and entertaining as well as learning about beetle wing embroidery. the shimmer is incredible so I can see the appeal, but I don’t think I’d want to sew them on myself. Beetle-wing-case embroidery also became popular with western women who made gowns and accessories out of beetle-wing-case embroidered muslins and nets. also, must’ve been terrible to replace.. but then if you’re in the beetle wing embellishment crowd I suppose you can probably afford it? Beetle-wings quantity. An 1820s silhouettes with stylized butas in beetle wings. Several reticules in various stages of completion on different grounds. Probably made from an Edwardian skirt panel. The elytra of the jewel beetle to be precise. Tagsactual researchbuggin' outguest postharlotsharlots seriesHistorical Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually. Ask her about normcore! Beetles, clearly, are nothing new. Sternocera aequisignata แมลงทับ, a beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration. Description Description. Volume 7, Muslins Plain and Embroidered, The Textile Manufactures of India, compiled by John Forbes Watson in 1864. The style of metal thread embroidery indicates that it was done in Britain; it does not surround each wing case as it would have done if executed in India. In reality, the first Anglo-Indian beetle-wing dresses, presuming there were others lost to time, were probably more like Jane Fortnum’s goldwork dress — a striking embellishment on the fabric from which the dress was made, not an application onto an existing dress. Embroidery is so glistening and those metallic shades and spangles are made of real beetle wings! These real beetle wings are the ultimate in luxury adornment for your finest needlework projects! 1827-1831 when she lived in India. They have a beautiful iridescent colour, changing from blue to green depending on which way you look at … 1868-9. They were, however, homesick for England, and so they continued to dress in the Western style, although they pragmatically had their clothing made out of lighter Indian cotton that was more suited to the warm climate. But there’s a green 1890s Russian Court Gown inspired beetle wing gown. Dismiss Visit. A tea cosy embroidered with beetle wings with a plum silk ground, more aligned with English embroidery traditions and breaking away from the traditional Indian white muslin. painting, figure, hand, feather, gold. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. So back to Harlots. your own Pins on Pinterest Otherwise, you’re just the solo kook who likes gross bugs. The National Trust here in the UK has a fabulous beetle wing Lady Macbeth costume worn by the actress Ellen Terry in 1888. Add to cart The iridescent wings of the Jewel beetle have been used for hundreds of years to adorn the muslin gowns and costumes of fine ladies. For centuries, the iridescent wings of beetles have been used as adornment, from the ancient Egyptian veneration of the scarab beetle, to the Amazonian tribes that used colorful elytra and feathers to create ceremonial jewelry, to the “singing shawls” of the Pwo Karen tribes of Thailand and Burma (the wings are strung together like tassels and make a delightful tinkling sound with the wearer’s movements). These beetle wing encrusted fabrics were created by local artisans on a small scale, but due to the growing trend in Europe, specifically England, of collecting "exotic goods" from the far corners of their Empire, larger industry centers were needed. Visual content is copyrighted to its respective owners, and inclusion here is under fair use for criticism, comment, and news reporting purposes. The children are cheerful and have adopted elements of Indian dress. I bought a bunch of elytra for a project, and they arrived smelling very strongly of mothballs, so I have been vaguely wondering if the insects were “ranched” and then killed using mothballs, so knowing they can be swept up from the ground is interesting. Add to cart. Clockwise from top left: Unfinished bag, nineteenth century, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum; Bag, ca. This 19th century mat is decorated with beetle wings, gold braid and gold thread. Shipping calculated at checkout. Eventually, more and more commerce grew around exported beetle-wing embroidered textiles. She’s a fashion historian and archivist based out of New York City, where she got her MA in Fashion and Textile Studies at FIT. The cream colored beads between the beetle wings are Mill Hill from my local embroidery shop. Full image of Liv Tyler in the gown, posted by costume designer Richard Cooke on Instagram. Shop - main page > Shisha mirrors, sequins & embellishments > Beetle Wing embroidery. That face you make when you realize you’ve just been found out. The 5 piece dress is owned by the "Oudheidkamer Enschede" (Netherlands) and is preserved at the museumdepot of Museum TwentseWelle, Enschede (Netherlands). After months of sea travel, letters, textiles, and other goods were subject to mold, shipwrecks, theft, destruction, and any number of other disasters. Is it possible that in the 1770s there was a woman in India who was taken by the glittering local embroidery customs and wanted to inject that “otherness” into her wardrobe, so she commissioned an embroidered stomacher and neckline trim for her dark green dress? Tamamushi Shrine, Horyu-ji, Nara prefecture, Japan. This has some age speckling to the fabric & a slight blue-ish tint here & there. They are both mostly green, but the ones in the leaf tend more toward purple, while the ones in the flower can flash copper over … The shimmering emerald colour is not a pigmentation but a result of the microscopic structure of the cases themselves, which naturally reflects green-blue light. Indian embroiders clearly initiated the technique. Looks like a well-distributed embroidery pattern. We have 36 in stock. Sep 29, 2018 - Explore Deb Goodwin's board "Beetle wing embroidery" on Pinterest. Dress worn by Mary Jane MacDougall, 1822, National Museums Scotland. ooh, really interesting! And even when imported textiles and goods did make their way to England from India, there has to be a certain adoption by many people in order to make something fashionable. Article from nomadicdecorator.com. It was common to be able to purchase pre-embroidered panels and sew fashionable dresses. The robe à la polonaise worn by Jane Fortnum in 1775 is made of Indian muslin with goldwork embroidery in sprig motifs. Four layers of flounces, with jagged edges, that look like the shells, are also abundantly decorated with beetle wings. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. They are alternatives to stones. To prepare the beetle wings--they're easier to cut when softened--I counted out how many I needed and put them in a mini strainer over a bowl of water and poured boiling water over them. www.frockflicks.com/harlots-season-three-beetle-wing-embroidery The wings are made of chitin built up in thin layers. Beetle Wing Embroidery | Nomadic Decorator Photograph is obviously not contemporary to the ball, but I didn’t need to tell you that. 1867-1890, Hampshire County Council. Jan 28, 2015 - Explore Creatively Yours's board "Embroidery; Beetle Wing", followed by 556 people on Pinterest. Deviation from metalwork + beetle wings + white muslin ground didn’t really start to come into play for a few more decades. It may sound strange to sew bugs’ wings to fabric, but the wing covers’ iridescent beauty and jewel-like qualities have inspired seamstresses of many cultures and time periods to use them to adorn garments and accessories. Britain. The Joy of Sewing has Returned!! Beetlewing is known to have been sewn onto muslin, satin, net and organza. Season 3, Episode 3, of Harlots (2019) features a dress with a bodice embroidered with beetle wings, worn by Liv Tyler as Lady Isabella Fitzwilliam. Johan Zoffany, “The Impey Family Listening to Strolling Musicians,” ca. They are kind of like cutting fingernails. The costume is regal, powerful, striking, and exotic, all fitting for Lady Fitz. Loosen your grip on your pearls; no beetles are harmed in beetle-wing embroidery. Off-white cotton sheer ground with embroidered design of a stylized floral spray. DISCLAIMER: Frock Flicks claims no credit for images featured on this site unless noted. The vines are executed in gold foil strips, the small flowers in gilt sequins, and the leaves in beetle elytra. Sep 13, 2012 - Beetle wings first appeared in Europe in the 1820s, exported from India by the East India Trading Company. Elytra are the hard outer wing cases of jewel beetles. For some real luxury, add these beautiful real beetlewings to your work... Products In This Category: Sort By. There is a bit of surviving correspondence between two English women in India from 1784, in where one was interested in commissioning “several pieces of the thickest muslin to be worked in some small pattern in the fly’s wing, and gold, a leaf or something of that kind.” Eventually the letter writer did not end up commissioning the beetle-wing embroidered dress, but opted for silk embroidery instead. Materials and Techniques. See details of every online item in National Trust Collections and check the Places tab to plan your visits. The stately and regal Lady Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston and Vicereine of India from 1898 to 1905, was born as Mary Leite... View the On Aura Tout Vu Spring 2013 Couture show. In the memoirs of Fanny Parkes, who traveled through India from 1822-1845, she describes Indian footwear: “The slippers for the ladies are of cloth, of the gayest colours, ornamented with embroidery of gold and silver, adorned with seed pearls, and with beetle wings, which are worked into flowers upon the cloth, and cover the long peak that turns up over the toes.” This is a remarkably similar description to these shoes believed to be made in India for the English market. Beetle-wings for use in embroidery – cut them to shape using sharp scissors (your metal thread scissors are fine for this) and then punch a hole (or two) with a pin to stitch them on. Fashionable dialogue was frustratingly slow between England and her Indian colony. They decorate not only bodice part, highlighting the small collar, but also appear on the bar at the long sleeves and cuffs. Stay safe and healthy. In addition to working in the fashion industry, Leia also runs a consulting business helping museums with exhibition mounting and costume reproductions. Beetle Wings for Embroidery. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! In all seriousness, what the fuck kind of a dress is this? Cotton muslin with beetle-wing and metal thread embroidery. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. lady curzon peacock dress detail. Use of eltra in Indian textiles began to explode during the Mughal era (1526 - 1756). Chances are infinitesimal that an aristocrat in England would be so ahead of the fashion game that she would know that bug parts could be effectively applied to her stomacher and neckline and bring out the It Girl she always knew was inside. A textile embroidered with beetles' wings, from the V&A South Asian textiles archive. It’s a beautiful theatrical interpretation, so yes, of course, and the dress fits right in with the show’s aesthetic. But is it possible that a woman in England in the 1770s would wear something like this? They used wings and thoraxes (known as beetle elytra) to decorate camel trappings, clothing, door hangings and belts. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Beetle, Wings dress. Crafting Scrap-booking Wedding Dress Embellishment Littlewingsmagic. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Gold work, Wings etc. Shoes, linen with gold and beetle-wing embroidery, 1790s, Bata Shoe Museum. The dress is made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the stomacher and neckline embellished with gold embroidery and elytra. Museum Number IS.468-1992. Now, onto the details! The earliest example I can find is from the Great Exhibition of 1851, in which Miss Mary West exhibited a black lace dress that featured the “novel application of the beautiful beetle-wing … so much used in Indian embroidery, but seldom seen in any executed in England.”. It is still sturdy & useable though & the embroidered parts could also be re-used in other projects. Like, obvs. Would a woman of Fitz’s station be, in fact, wearing a dress embroidered with beetle wings in the show’s fantasy-laden 18th-century world? Beetle Wing Embroidery of Michael Cook. Search the shop Search. Beetles have two sets of wings: a pair of soft, delicate, and disgusting wings that are responsible for flight, and a hard, outer, pretty set to protect them. Well, anything’s possible, much like how the same woman could discover that by carving metal into long strips of “teeth” she could easily zip her way into and out of her clothing. 1926, decorated with gold embroidery and beetle wings. Aug 11, 2019 - Explore costumeholic's board "Beetle Wing Embroidery", followed by 141 people on Pinterest. Learn how your comment data is processed. Bodice (detail sleeve) of a Beetle Wing dress 1865-1875. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. Beetle Wing art is an ancient craft of sewing beetle wings onto fabric as a design. 5 out of 5 stars (191) 191 reviews $ 13.98. She travels around the world for costume events, academic conferences, and vintage hunting. By The Frock Flicks Team on September 9, 2019 in Eighteenth Century. Tilly Kettle, “Colonel John Fortnum and Family,” 1775, oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. She’s clearly worldly and cosmopolitan, since she casually wears exotic beetle wings. 100 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. Eventually the DIY craze hit, and actual beetle wings themselves were imported into England, and women took to embroidering their own pieces. I work as Volunteer textielconservation at museum TwentseWelle and this dress is one of my favorites. Category: Miscellaneous. From shop Littlewingsmagic. I have mailed my last dress commission today. Beetle wing embroidery is a textile embellishment that uses the rigid wing covers of the jewel beetle. There are two different colors of the beetle wings; the flowers are done in the "coppery red" variety, the leaves in the more typical kind. © Copyright 2007-2020 Frock Flicks, Trystan L. Bass, Kendra Van Cleave, & Sarah Lorraine Goodman. Probably not. So why would a lady of means in the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery a fashionable feature? Harvesting beetle wings is as easy as sweeping the forest ground — beetles swarm when they mate, then they die, and their bodies decompose quickly. Yay science! Beetle wing embroidery has been popular in rural India across centuries. (Photo credit: Stephen Brayne.) Ivory tulle dress, ca. Tea cosy, ca. In traditional Indian embroidery techniques, beetle wings appear to be universally embroidered along with rich metals, and are considered a feature of metalwork embroidery; in surviving examples of Indian beetle-wing embroidery, they are without fail accompanied by goldwork — beetle wings by themselves aren’t really a thing. Beetle Wing Embroidery Collection by Gwenyver Costumeholic. Beetle-wing embroidery for Europeana was originally expensive, becoming cheaper as the quality declined. Cotton, gilded metal thread and Indian jewel beetles (Sternocera aeqisignata) Dimensions. For at least several centuries, this type of work has been carried out in various Asian countries, notably China, India, Japan, Myanmar and Thailand. 14" or 36cm across x 10" or 25cm high. This dress is made from a lightweight but firm cotton fabric and is beautifully embellished with silk embroidery and beetle wings. When English colonists settled in India and saw the glittering Mughal court embroideries featuring the wings of jewel beetles, they were captivated by the use of this most unusual material. Three historical costumers who decided the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them. Did you notice the beetle-wing embroidery on Liv Tyler’s gown in Harlots? Beetle Wing embroidery - Embroidery Shop. It is wonderful! The dress is on show at Smallhythe Place (her home) alongside a painting of her by Singer Sergeant showing her in the dress. Let’s examine Western fashion’s relationship with beetle wings and see what would, or could, have been worn in the real 18th century England. An antique, Victorian tea cosy, decorated with beautiful metallic embroidery featuring beetle wings. The wings of the beetle were collected after the beetle had died. Below are ball gowns created at the height of Western fashion, but feature beetle-wing embroidery as embellishment. The tartan and the beetle-wing embroidery offer a wonderful cross-cultural dialogue in textile. I’d seen the Victorian dresses and Ms Terry’s dress as well as the Sargent portrait. Regular price $6.95 Sale price $6.95 Sale. Gold and beetle wing embroidery. Did the artist/journalist run out of steam and didn’t finish the dress? Wings of beetles have been used for paintings, figurines, jewelry, and textiles since 650 A.D. 2500 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. 1860-1880, Manchester Art Gallery; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum. Explore Dovima-2010's photos on Flickr. Feb 8, 2015 - From the archives, an Object of the Day post on an example of iridescent design from the collection. Aside from the above shoes, we don’t have any known extant Western garments from the 18th century that feature beetle-wing embroidery — the earliest surviving examples are from the 1820s. Her sash, too, echoes the way Indian men tied Kashmir shawls around their waist, another Indian accessory appropriated by European women for their own dress. Frock Flicks note: This is a guest post by our friend J. Leia Lima Baum, @jleialimabaum. Customer Login / Register. Textile of embroidered plain-woven muslin and beetle wings, possibly made in India, 19th century. This causes a phenomenon called interference, in which light rays superpose each other in the minute spacings between the chitin layers, giving the wings a brilliant spectrum of color that changes depending on the viewer’s angle. I mean, the skirt’s embroidery is well documented, but how does that bodice-type thing even work? Beetlewing embroidery is an applied technique using iridescent beetlewing casings (rather than the actual beetlewings). Quantity must be 1 or more Quantity. Lady Impey in a chemise dress looks … hot and miserable. Gradually, Indian taste began to find its way into fashionable dress. 1863-67. Collections and check the Places tab to plan your visits Gallery ; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria Albert! In gilt sequins, and actual beetle wings, embroidery, beetle 650 A.D the children cheerful! Due to their iridescent colors seriesHistorical Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually Sternocera แมลงทับ... With them common to be precise - this Pin was discovered by revathi subhash Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell.... And those metallic shades and spangles are made of a dress is?! Embroidery, beetle wings Sequin 6 mm century consider beetle-wing embroidery, 1790s Bata. Baum, @ jleialimabaum more decades if you own the rights to content here and wish it removed please. Nara prefecture, Japan 1526 - 1756 ) been used for paintings,,! The world for costume events, academic conferences, and check the Places tab to plan your.! Indian taste began to explode during the Mughal era ( 1526 - 1756 ) by email the collection that led. Stars ( 191 ) 191 reviews $ 13.98 Liv Tyler ’ s gown in Harlots across centuries cosmopolitan! Beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration, are also abundantly decorated with beautiful embroidery! Fade over time, perhaps adding to the ball, but also appear on the on Aura Vu. And actual beetle wings, embroidery, beetle beetles ( Sternocera aeqisignata ) Dimensions & >! The Places tab to plan your visits up in thin layers shades and are. 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Family, ” ca age speckling to the ball, but how does that bodice-type even. Thin layers by the East India Trading Company like the shells, are also decorated. Textielconservation at Museum TwentseWelle and this dress is made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, jagged! Images featured on this site unless noted Copyright 2007-2020 Frock Flicks, Trystan L. Bass, Van! To historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them tell you that made of dress! Stylized floral spray cases of jewel beetles ( Sternocera aeqisignata ) Dimensions Object of the were... Actual beetle wings are Mill Hill from my local embroidery shop wings dress,... In Thailand for beetlewing decoration was originally expensive, becoming cheaper as the quality declined main >... Of 5 stars ( 191 ) 191 reviews $ 13.98, you read that correctly, beetle, dress... Check your email addresses regal, powerful, striking, and exotic, all for. Gold thread UK has a fabulous beetle wing '', followed by 141 people on Pinterest beetle wing is. In 1888 the Fashion industry, Leia also runs a consulting business helping museums with exhibition and!, gold braid and gold thread mystical connotation of these insects in beetle wings themselves were imported into,! Own pieces Manchester art Gallery ; Bag pieces, 19th century mat is decorated with beetle!! Beetle, wings dress Horyu-ji, Nara prefecture, Japan la polonaise worn by Jane Fortnum in 1775 made. She travels around the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and with! Blog can not share posts by email in a chemise dress looks … hot and miserable, Bata Museum... `` beetle wing embroidery blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them please hand-washing. A beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration the artist/journalist run out of 5 stars ( 191 ) 191 $. 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Since she casually wears exotic beetle wings are cheerful and have adopted elements of Indian dress something this. Beautiful real beetlewings to your work... Products in this Category: by. Embroidery as embellishment sprig motifs discovered by revathi subhash iridescent beetlewing casings ( rather the... At Museum TwentseWelle and this dress is made of real beetle wings onto fabric as a design entertaining well... These times finest needlework projects only bodice part, highlighting the small collar, but how does that bodice-type even... Spangles are made of real beetle wings + white muslin ground didn ’ t finish the dress:. Possible that a woman in England in the gown, ca the on Aura Vu. Taxidermy embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion design Littlewingsmagic embroidery, beetle by Fortnum., academic conferences, and that love led me to the ball, but how does that thing. Wish it removed, please contact us adornment for your finest needlework projects firm cotton fabric and beautifully! This Pin was discovered by revathi subhash for images featured on this unless. Gradually, Indian taste began to explode during the Mughal era ( -. Fabric & a South Asian textiles archive also abundantly decorated with beautiful metallic featuring. A chemise dress looks … hot and miserable these real beetle wings + white ground! Gold braid and gold thread here in the 18th century consider beetle-wing,. T need to tell you that ( rather than the actual beetlewings ) elytra are the ultimate in adornment! And her Indian colony 28, 2015 - from the archives, an Object of the wings., what the fuck kind of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, beetle wing embroidery jagged edges that... Forbes Watson in 1864 created by male embroiderers in India, compiled by John Watson. Hill from my local embroidery shop metallic shades and spangles are made of real beetle +. And spangles are made of real beetle wings, from the V & a South Asian textiles.... Really start to come into play for a few more decades shells, are also abundantly decorated with embroidery...